Part 1 - Milngavie to Tyndrum
The prospect of this itinerary, when Davey assigned me to this trip, was both exciting and slightly intimidating. Based on Ronald Turnbull’s book ‘Not the West Highland Way’, it takes the West Highland Way and supercharges it with the inclusion of numerous Munro summits, often reached by rough pathless terrain. It offers a far greater challenge than the standard West Highland Way, so when Colin from a hiking club called ‘The Mountaineers’ got in touch and suggested this alternative, I hoped the club members would live up to their name.
I needn’t have worried.
Our first two days took the standard West Highland Way route. We enjoyed strolling to Drymen and Rowardennan in glorious May sunshine, absorbing the beauty of the hills and woods above Loch Lomond. Bluebells were out in force and we had a spring in our step as we got to know each other and what Scotland might have in store for us.
The third day was where our itinerary departed from the standard West Highland Way. Neville joined us as an additional Mountain Leader for the traverse of Ben Lomond, with extra craic and good humour as always.
As we climbed out of the oakwoods of Rowardennan, views of the islands in the Loch opened up, but then quickly disappeared as we ascended into cloud. A squally shower came in behind us as if to demonstrate that the weather changes far more quickly in Scotland than in the continental climate of North America. These folks were not in the least bit worried however, being well used to rain and well equipped. Togged up we marched steadily up into the mist and a keen wind. The summit stop was brief but satisfying. Smiles all round at our first Munro.
Descending steeply at first towards the Ptarmigan Ridge, we then left the path and headed north into untracked bog and tussock. This type of terrain can be a bit of a wake-up call to many American walkers, who are often used to hiking on well groomed trails, but The Mountaineers embraced the challenge and got stuck in – thankfully not literally. The dry spring had left the bogs less treacherous than usual.
We dropped out of the cloud for some stunning lunchtime views but it was still tough going as we continued our descent to Loch Lomond. Here we said farewell to Neville. He turned left and we turned right towards Inversnaid to catch the boat to our accommodation in Tarbet. It was with some relief that we reached Inversnaid with half an hour to spare. Time for a welcome cup of tea, a biscuit and a sit down!
We had an easier schedule the following day, along the wooded shore to the head of the Loch. Although this is a tough section requiring concentration and careful footwork, we were treated to more stunning bluebells, butterflies, sunshine and a well-earned pint in the Drovers Arms at Inverarnan to finish.
Our fifth walking day saw us leaving the standard itinerary again to head off for the ascent of our second Munro, Ben Lui, a beautiful shapely peak which we had been spotting from the shores of Loch Lomond on previous days. Although tired, the group were in good spirits and going well, buoyed up by the return of Nev who joined us again for the climb.
After a long ascent on forestry tracks running alongside hydro pipes, we struck out across more pathless terrain and climbed steadily towards the peak. Bright spring sunshine, dappled clouds and a cool northerly wind gave us stunning views down to the Arrochar Alps and Ben Lomond. Ptarmigan, their plumage still half white after winter hopped and clicked nearby. We stopped for a bite of lunch before heading up the final shapely pyramid.
A fair rim of snow on the eastern flank added to the grandeur and we made good time to the summit. A second lunch on top was accompanied by a magnificent raven hopping about inquisitively, hoping for sandwiches; his perch and ours magnificently exposed above the snow-filled coire.
Avoiding the steep descent of the North East Ridge, we headed down the northern Spur before traversing to descend steeply down the coire and past the Cononish gold mine to Tyndrum – well almost. Dalrigh was close enough after a big day.
A day off followed with the opportunity to rest and enjoy the delights of Tyndrum!
