For many walkers on the West Highland Way the Devil’s Staircase is the section of the walk that creates the most anxiety. It’s true that the name hints at a diabolical climb, a Sisyphean plod up an unending, infernal pathway. But, the truth is far from it, and for many people it ends up being one of the most memorable parts of the Way.
The approach to the Staircase takes you through the upper section of Glencoe from the Kinghouse Hotel and is an area where Red Deer can often be spotted. The whole of this section is dominated by the spectacular bulk of Buchaille Etive Mòr (The Herdsman of Etive), the much photographed peak that dominates the landscape and was much beloved by pre-eminent Scottish climber and man of action WH Murray.
The Devil’s Staircase itself diverts away from the road at Altnafeadh opposite the famous, whitewashed Lagangarbh Hut, reputed to be one of the most photographed buildings in Scotland. The path climbs steadily following the line of a small burn before the famous zigzags that take you up to the highest point of the West Highland Way at 548 metres.
My recommendation is to take plenty of rests to enjoy the spectacular views the climb affords, and before you know it you’ll be topping out at the very eastern end of a ridgeline that becomes the Aonach Eagach further west. Glencoe will sit behind you and views towards the Mamores ahead of you. In good conditions the top of the Staircase makes a great spot for photographs and a bit of lunch before the long descent into Kinlochleven.
So, why the Devil’s Staircase? There are a number of theories but all of them date back to long before the West Highland Way so we can’t blame exhausted walkers for the name. The first tale I heard was that the path was named by the disgruntled soldiers tasked with building General Wade’s military road, the route of which the West Highland Way follows on and off for much of it’s second half. The steep, unforgiving landscape caused the road building squaddies to christen this section after Old Nick.
The second tale was told to me by Jamie, a local taxi driver. He recounted that the Wade’s soldiers had a terrible reputation for murder, looting and countless other abuses of local folks and that after one particularly brutal encounter the locals responded by chasing the redcoats who fled up the Staircase and away towards the protection of Fort William with the locals cursing the red-coated devils as they fled.
The final story relates to the “navvies” employed to work on the construction of the Blackwater Dam at the start of the Twentieth Century. Living in a rough camp and working hard in all weathers the work had a reputation for leaving the men very thirsty on payday. The nearest hostelry was at Kinghouse back over the pass in Glencoe and the story goes that more than a few men disappeared on their drunken return back to the camp. The rumour grew up of the Devil “taking his own” and so the name remained.
Whichever story you choose to believe the Devil’s Staircase is one of the highlights of the West Highland Way. It combines scenic beauty with history and mythology and is also a signal that you only have a day and a half to go before completing your journey.
I hope you look forward to, or look back on with happy memories, your encounter with the Devil on the West Highland Way!
Ian Howells
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