Being based in the south of Scotland the fact that we don’t offer a Southern Upland Way trek is somewhat of a glaring omission. This winter the wheels have been put in motion to rectify that.
The route itself is a 214 mile (344km) long coast to coast waymarked trail, and indeed recognised as one of Scotland’s Great Trails. Opened in 1984 this is not a new route, although it sees far fewer walkers than fellow 40-something West Highland Way. As the name suggests this is no flat wander and a real long-distance walking challenge. The terrain varies dramatically from minor roads to squelching bog and everything in between.
The distance and the challenging nature of this trek makes it one for the fit walker and/or the seasoned long-distance trail walker. It certainly can’t be described as an introductory trail. Familiar with much of the Southern Upland Way east of Moffat, from day walks on my home patch, this winter gave me the chance to head to Dumfries and Galloway to explore that end of the trail.
Portpatrick provides a wonderful starting location for this trek, and the clifftop section will linger in the memory. Perhaps the pull of the sea is what keeps walkers going as legs tire on this long route. A mix of moor, farmland, minor roads and forestry pulls the trail away from the coast, past Stranraer and Castle Kennedy, and towards those Uplands.
As well as the modern landscape of forestry and windfarms, there is as much ancient history in these parts. Brochs, chambered cairns, crannogs and standing stones are either visible reminders of a long peopled history or notable marks on the map. Craig Airie Fell is the first high point with excellent views to the Merrick and the Galloway Forest Park. Walking this section through Glen Trool was a particular highlight of the recce, with a frosty bivvy under the stars on the way to St John’s Town of Dalry.
There are some quite stark landscapes on the route eastwards, whether that be harvested forest, or abandoned mines, but there is much interest even in these places. Wanlockhead, Scotland’s highest village and built around the lead mine is a fascinating place, and the small ski run on Lowther Hill an intriguing novelty.
The hilly terrain does not let up, even after the route descends to Beatock, near Moffat. There is still much height to be gained and lost through to the Ettrick and Tweed Valleys, and the Lammermuir hills the final barrier to the eastern coast. With a much better appreciation of the western half of the Southern Upland Way, I can feel the pull of this route even more now.
Plans are brewing for 2026 and if you would like to be part of those plans then please do get in touch. Your input on both preferred dates and duration would be welcomed.
You can find more info on the specifics of the trail here.