Here in the South of Scotland lies the town of Hawick. The locals here say that the sense of community, of pride, of joy, most apparent during their yearly Common Riding festivities, is “better felt than telt”. For anyone who has been lucky enough to visit the Western Isles I am sure that saying will also ring true. I don’t think I would have been alone in having an appreciation of that feeling as the ferry departed mainland Scotland and set its course across the Minch.
This May Thistle Trekking set sail for our first ever trek on the Outer Hebrides, the Hebridean Way. We had selected some of the best bits (and made some little additions) to give what we hope would be an excellent week’s walking through the chain of islands. A place of vast histories both geological and human, it really is a place full of uniqueness; from the machair and the sands, to the rugged exposed rock, billions of years in the making.
Having arrived on the late ferry from Ullapool we took a leisurely start to our first day. A drive to the Calanais Stones was not to be missed. It was apt to finally put our boots on the ground at this neolithic scene, where a connection to land and rock was clearly so important, not only life-affirming but no doubt essential to survival.
We drove further South to Scaladale to begin our walking, taking in the Lewis peat-bogs from the comfort of our van, rather than stomping through it. From here we took on two short up-and-overs, that made for a perfect half-day on the trail and got us safely to Tarbert where we would be based for the next 3 nights.
The following two days were spent winding our way through South Harris. We followed in the footsteps of locals, school children and mourners, as we walked the Golden Road, the Scholars Path and then the Coffin Road to the famous Luskentyre. Our lunch was spent in the company of an Osprey. By the time we reach the beach itself, it was windswept, with showers blowing by; a typically moody Hebridean scene.
Our final day on Harris was spent negotiating the roughest section of the trail down the hills of the West Coast. Although the going is tough it is easy to see why this was the route chosen for the Hebridean Way. It provides an incredible vantage point over Luskentyre, and then many more viewpoints and changing scenes as we headed south. We concluded our day at the beach, deciding that a cup of tea and some time on the sands was preferrable to another hour or three of negotiating bog.
With Lewis and Harris behind us we made for Bernerary and a little diversion from the official route. We started with a loop of Bernerary, taking in the glorious Western Beach in bright sunshine – it was one of “those” Hebridean days better seen and even better felt than described in writing. There was a quick swim in the irresistible sea for Elke, our cold water adapted walker.
A quick boost across the causeway in the van got us to the base of Beinn Mhor. A steep hike to the top revealed ever better views, over to Lochmaddy where we would spend the night. The following day we paid a visit to Hercules, the once free roaming bear, and onto the pottery. Another day of two halves, involved a lift to skip some road walking, before an ascent of Ruabhal. Not a big hill at only 140m but it certainly stands out. And, once again, what a viewpoint! Lunch was taken here before we headed to the North Uist coast which we would follow till the end of the day at Liniclate.
Our penultimate day started at the RSPB reserve and then made for the coast again. Following the beaches and the machair, negotiating extremely smelly seaweed, we stopped for lunch at Rubha Aird A’ Mhuile, where Harry joined us to serve teas, coffees and cakes. The day concluded in the dunes with the fascinating Cladh Hallan providing interest to the finish.
Then it was onto Barra for the final leg of our Hebridean Way trek. The route through the island is fairly demanding and a bit of a sting in the tail for the seventh day. However, the beauty in all directions more than made up for effort. A day when planes landed on beaches, eagles were spotted, and we looked South from Beinn Tangabhal over the last of the island chain. Finishing on the white sands of Vatersay was just perfect, fully justifying the unorthodox decision to walk from north to south.
There was now only time for some dinner, a beer or two, and a few hours rest, before the early ferry (even earlier than initially scheduled) departed Castlebay for Oban.
This was our first ever Hebridean Way trek and we a looking forward to many more in the future. You can find out all about our trips and make a booking here.
